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Miss Vietnam Jewelry Queen

VUONG THANH HUYENThis year's Miss Vietnam Jewelry Queen, receives applications as early as April. The aimed of this contest is to extol Vietnamese beauties as well as jewelry artisans, and will start nationwide this October.

Miss Vietnam Jewelry Queen contest will be starting this coming October. The preliminary round will be kicked off on October 13 in HCM City; October 20 in Hai Phong; and in Hanoi on October 27. 30 finalists will compete for the highest title worth VND225 million on the final night to be held on November 14. Besides 225 million dong, Miss Vietnam Jewelry Queen will also be presented with an overseas trip from 5 to 7 days.

Smaller prizes worth VND10million each will be given to Miss Photogenic, Best Ao Dai, Best Answer and Best Gown. As for competing artisans, there will be a VND50million prize for Golden Hands winner; VND40million for Silver Hands; VND30million for Bronze Hands, as well as VND10million encouragement prizes.

Unlike in the two previous years, in this year’s contest, only one jury will judge both jewelry and beauties. According to the organisation committee, the final night will also see performances by well-known singers such as My Tam, Dan Truong and Dam Vinh Hung, and especially, the presence of Miss Vietnam Global 2007 Ngo Phuong Lan.

The organisation committee also said first runner up in Miss Vietnam Global 2007 Teressa Sam might attend the final night. Miss Vietnam Jewelry Queen is being organised by Gold Fashion Magazine, formerly known as Fine Arts and Jewelry Magazine.


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Diamond Miners of Sierra Leone

diamond miningIn KOIDU, Sierra Leone. The tiny stone settled into the calloused grooves of Tambaki Kamanda’s palm, its dull yellow glint almost indiscernible even in the noontime glare.It was the first stone he had found in days, and he expected to get little more than a dollar for it. It hardly seemed worth it, he said — after days spent up to his haunches in mud, digging, washing, searching the gravel for diamonds. Farming had brought no money for clothes or schoolbooks for his two wives and five children. He could find no work as a mason. “I don’t have choice,” Mr. Kamanda said, standing calf-deep in brown muddy water here at the Bondobush mine, where he works every day. “This is my only hope, really.”





diamond minersDiamond mining in Sierra Leone is no longer the bloody affair made infamous by the nation’s decade-long civil war, in which diamonds played a role. The diamond conflict (blood diamond) - begun by rebels who claimed to be ridding the mines of foreign control - killed 50,000 people, forced millions to flee their homes, destroyed the country’s economy and shocked the world with its images of amputated limbs and drug-addled boy soldiers. An international regulatory system created after the war has prevented diamonds from fueling conflicts and financing terrorist networks.

Regardless of that matter, diamond mining in Sierra Leone remains a grim business that brings the government far too little revenue to right the devastated country, yet feeds off the desperation of some of the world’s poorest people. “The process is more to sanitize the industry from the market side rather than the supply side,” said John Kanu, a policy adviser to the Integrated Diamond Management Program, a United States-backed effort to improve the government’s handling of diamond money. “To make it so people could go to buy a diamond ring and to say, ‘Yes, because of this system, there are no longer any blood diamonds. So my love, and my conscience, can sleep easily.’
“But that doesn’t mean that there is justice,” he said. “That will take a lot, lot longer to change.”


mined diamondsIn many cases, the vilified foreign mine owners have simply been replaced by local elites with a firm grip on the industry’s profits. At the losing end are the miners here in Kono District, who work for little or no pay, hoping to strike it rich but caught in a net of semifeudal relationships that make it all but impossible that they ever will. A vast majority of Sierra Leone’s diamonds are mined by hand from alluvial deposits near the earth’s surface, so anyone with a shovel, a bucket and a sieve can go into business; and in a country with few formal jobs, at least 150,000 people work as diggers, government officials said.
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The New Diamond Age

"Yellow diamonds of this color are very hard to find.
It is probably worth 10, maybe 15 thousand dollars."
"This is very rare stone,"
Aron Weingarten says.


Yellow diamonds manufactured by Gemesis, the first company to market gem-quality synthetic stones. The largest grow to 3 carats.

It was Aron Weingarten that brings the yellow diamond up to the stainless steel jeweler's loupe he holds against his eye. We are in Antwerp, Belgium, in Weingarten's marbled and gilded living room on the edge of the city's gem district, the center of the diamond universe. Nearly 80 percent of the world's rough and polished diamonds move through the hands of Belgian gem traders like Weingarten, a dealer who wears the thick beard and black suit of the Hasidim.

Put pure carbon under enough heat and pressure - say, 2,200 degrees Fahrenheit and 50,000 atmospheres - and it will crystallize into the hardest material known. Those were the conditions that first forged diamonds deep in Earth's mantle 3.3 billion years ago. Replicating that environment in a lab isn't easy, but that hasn't kept dreamers from trying. Since the mid-19th century, dozens of these modern alchemists have been injured in accidents and explosions while attempting to manufacture diamonds.

Decades ago, it have seen some modest successes. In 1950s, engineers managed to produce this tiny crystals for industrial purposes - to coat saws, drill bits, and grinding wheels.

But it was this summer, the first wave of gem-quality manufactured diamonds began to hit the market. They are grown in a warehouse in Florida by a roomful of Russian-designed machines spitting out 3-carat roughs 24 hours a day, seven days a week. A second company, in Boston, has perfected a completely different process for making near-flawless diamonds and plans to begin marketing them by year's end. This sudden arrival of mass-produced gems threatens to alter the public's perception of diamonds - and to transform the $7 billion industry. More intriguing, it opens the door to the development of diamond-based semiconductors.

Diamond, it turns out, is a geek's best friend. Not only is it the hardest substance known, it also has the highest thermal conductivity - tremendous heat can pass through it without causing damage. Today's speedy microprocessors run hot - at upwards of 200 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, they can't go much faster without failing. Diamond microchips, on the other hand, could handle much higher temperatures, allowing them to run at speeds that would liquefy ordinary silicon. But manufacturers have been loath even to consider using the precious material, because it has never been possible to produce large diamond wafers affordably. With the arrival of Gemesis, the Florida-based company, and Apollo Diamond, in Boston, that is changing. Both startups plan to use the diamond jewelry business to finance their attempt to reshape the semiconducting world.

Before anyone reinvents the chip industry, they'll have to prove they can produce large volumes of cheap diamonds. Beyond Gemesis and Apollo, one company is convinced there's something real here: De Beers Diamond Trading Company. The London-based cartel has monopolized the diamond business for 115 years, forcing out rivals by ruthlessly controlling supply. But the sudden appearance of multicarat, gem-quality synthetics has sent De Beers scrambling. Several years ago, it set up what it calls the Gem Defensive Programme - a none too subtle campaign to warn jewelers and the public about the arrival of manufactured diamonds. At no charge, the company is supplying gem labs with sophisticated machines designed to help distinguish man-made from mined stones.

In its long history, De Beers has survived African insurrection, shrugged off American antitrust litigation, sidestepped criticism that it exploits third world workers, and contended with Australian, Siberian, and Canadian diamond discoveries. The firm has a huge advertising budget and a stranglehold on diamond distribution channels. But there's one thing De Beers doesn't have: retired brigadier general Carter Clarke.

Carter Clarke, 75, who has been retired from the Army for nearly 30 years, but he never lost the air of command. When he walks into Gemesis - the company he founded in 1996 to make diamonds - the staff stands at attention to greet him.

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Diamonds : In Depth?

Canada's quest for diamonds looks like one of the biggest stories in Canada for the next 10, 20 years – and beyond. The first diamond discovery in 1991 happened at Point Lake near Lac de Gras in the Northwest Territories, some 300 kilometres northeast of Yellowknife.

Diamonds in DepthIn the late-19th century in the Yukon, there was the gold rush when tens of thousands of stampeders headed north to the Dawson City to make their fortunes. Now it's diamonds, first in the Northwest Territories, now in the new territory of Nunavut. From a standing start in 1991, Canada is now ranking in the top three diamond producers in the world in terms of value.

Two diamond mines have since come into production in the area:

* The Ekati, about 300 kilometres northeast of Yellowknife, opened in 1998. Ekati is owned by Australian mining conglomerate BHP Billiton (80 per cent) and by prospectors Charles Fipke and Stewart Blusson (20 per cent).


* The Diavik, about 100 kilometres southeast of Ekati, opened in 2003. Diavik is owned by Diavik Diamond Mines Inc. (60 per cent), a Yellowknife-based subsidiary of Britain's Rio Tinto PLC and Toronto-based Aber Diamond Corp. (40 per cent).


Canada's third and Nunavut's first diamond mine, Jericho, is about 400 km northeast of Yellowknife. The mine, owned by the Toronto-based Tahera Diamond Corporation, and it opened officially in August 2006.

A fourth diamond mine, Snap Lake-4 in the Northwest Territories about 220 kilometres northeast of Yellowknife, is expected to begin production in late 2007. It is owned by De Beers.

Statistics Canada says that between 1998 and 2002, 13.8 million carats have been mined, and the diamonds – precious stones of pure carbon – are worth $2.8 billion. "This is roughly a 1.5-kilogram bag of ice each day for five years, with each bag worth $1.5 million," a Statistics Canada paper says.

Even better, Canada's diamonds have gained a world reputation for quality. They are also "clean" in that they are not used to finance terror, war and weapons as they are in parts of the world such as Sierra Leone and Angola. At the end of 2003, Canada was the world's third-largest producer of diamonds, providing 15 per cent of the world's supply. The top two diamond producers are Botswana and Russia.

Canadian diamonds not only are clean, as in not being "dirty diamonds" or "blood diamonds," they are actually rather wholesome-looking, each etched with a speck of polar bear as a trademark. They're also fashionable, as when Canadian teen singer Avril Lavigne attended the MTV Awards in New York in 2003, wearing $50,000 worth of Canadian diamonds.

The supply of Canadian diamonds is not expected to diminish any time soon. Ekati, Diavik, Jericho and Snap Lake are expected to keep producing the best diamonds in the world for the next 18 years. By then, of course, judging by the prospecting, claims and permit action in the Canadian North, more diamond mines will have come on line, probably lots more.

The intense diamond activity produces more than diamonds. Many ancillary activities spin off the diamond action, such as non-residential construction, transportation in the North, as well as Arctic and sub-Arctic engineering projects. No other pursuits – not gold, not pipelines – promise more long-term excitement and riches than the production of diamonds in the vast expanse of the Canadian North.

This means high-income jobs, many of them permanent, not just smash-and-grab projects. Workers directly involved in diamond mining in the North increased from 90 to 700 between 1998 and 2001. Recent figures say diamond-jobs are nearing 2,000 in early 2004.

The average salary is about $63,000, with nearly a third of the jobs – in some regions, nearly 80 per cent – done by aboriginals. Trained diamond cutters – many in Canada from Armenia, Israel, China and Vietnam – command salaries above $100,000.

A Globe and Mail report in February 2004 referred to "a new wave of diamond lust" in the Canadian Arctic, reporting that prospecting companies have laid claim to more than 70 million acres in the Northwest Territories and Nunavut. The newspaper said the most dramatic increase in diamond action is in Nunavut, where the number of prospecting permits jumped to 1,518 in 2004 from 190 in 2003.

The lure of diamonds has ignited a boom that is the talk across the North. Skilled tradesmen are in short supply in places such as Yellowknife, as top tradesmen are hired away to work at diamond mines. The ripple effect has resulted in hikes to an already high cost of living, with low vacancy rates and high rents. A basement apartment in Yellowknife can fetch $1,500 a month.

Yellowknife Mayor Dave Lowell said in 1998 that the diamond rush might have saved Yellowknife. "Quite simply, it is our future," Lowell said. "We'd be going into quite a recession if it wasn't for the diamond mine."

Beginning on Dec. 1, 2003, companies had a month to apply for prospecting permits. There were long, round-the-clock line-ups at offices in Yellowknife and Iqaluit. It costs about 10 cents an acre to register a claim, $1.50 to $2 an acre to stake a claim. With 70 million acres involved, this could add up quickly. To speed things up, especially in the brief periods of daylight in winter, some claim stakes have been dropped from helicopters.

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Beethoven's hair turned into £500k diamond



The great music composer Ludwig van Beethoven is said to set shine on this world again - after a lock of his hair was grown into a precious diamond. This sparkling blue stone that was created by using tiny amounts of carbon extracted from 10 strands of the famous musician's brown hair. It is the first time that a celebrity or historical figure's hair has been turned into a diamond - and the rock is expected to sell for £500,000. The late musician's locks came from a collection of famous hair stored at the University Archives in Connecticut in the US. Experts exposed the extracted carbon to extremely high temperatures before placing it under an enormous weight for two weeks.

During that time, the carbon grew into a 0.56 carat diamond which is now going to be sold off for charity. It is now listed on internet auction site eBay and LifeGem, the company that has made the diamond, is hoping there will be bids from around the world. David Hampson, chief executive of LifeGem UK, said: "This diamond is the first ever created from the carbon of a celebrity or historical figure. "We are hoping that perhaps a high profile musician such as Sir Elton John or Sir Paul McCartney will buy it.

"But with it being on eBay, anyone can bid on it." John Reznikoff, president of the University Archives, holds the Guinness World Record for the largest and most valuable collection of celebrity and historical hair.

Hundreds of years ago it was the trend to cut some strands of hair and place them inside a locket. Mr Reznikoff has been collecting these locks for the last 50 years and Beethoven's is estimated to be about 200 years old. He decided to donate the composer's hair to LifeGem for the charity auction after it was decided Beethoven is a figure of worldwide appeal. Experts at LifeGem HQ in Chicago then burned the hair without oxygen to ensure it did not disintegrate.

They extracted 130 milligrammes of carbon from 10 strands and divided it into three separate diamond presses. Each of the presses was exposed to temperatures of 3,000 degrees celsius and placed under one million pounds of pressure for a two week growing period. Once ready, the stones were cut into Round Brilliant Diamonds, polished and then certified. One of the diamonds will be returned to the University Archives and the other will be placed on display in the LifeGem archives. The third will be listed on eBay for 30 days but the reserve price has not yet been released. Mr Hampson said: "The lock of Beethoven's hair was generously donated to LifeGem by the University Archives.

"The hair has been authenticated and comes from a collection that includes hair from Napoleon, Albert Einstein and Abraham Lincoln. "Beethoven's was chosen for two reasons. He has worldwide appeal and is also non-political so will not offend anyone in this day and age.

"The diamond is not in a setting, it just comes on its own.

"The money will then be split among the various branches of LifeGem around the world and the UK should receive a 25 per cent share." The UK's percentage will be going straight to Dreams Come True, a charity that fulfils the wishes of terminally and seriously ill children. Mr Hampson added: "The proceeds of this historical diamond will give us the opportunity to help a great number of children. "But it also highlights the the new technology that enables us to make a diamond from a lock of hair. "In the past we have only been able to make diamonds from a person's ashes. "But now people are given the opportunity to give a gift as a celebration of life."
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Victoria Secret Diamond Bra



The $4.5 million Hearts on Fire Diamond Fantasy Bra weighs more than 800 carats. While this 10-carat Victoria's Secret diamond lingerie with a large price tag for ultimate luxury.

According to model Karolina Kurkova, "It is the most comfortable Fantasy Bra."

"It's very comfortable and it doesn't dig in."


Karolina Kurkova wearing Victoria Secret Diamond Bra




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Diamonds unlock secrets of early Earth



The small gems are the oldest identified fragments of the Earth's crust and their existence suggests the Earth may have cooled faster than previously thought, found trapped in zircon crystals in the Jack Hills region experts said last August 22, 2007.

The time between the creation of the Earth around 4.5 billion years ago and the formation of the oldest known rocks some 500 million years later is known as the "dark ages" of geology (Hadean period). Many geologists traditionally thought of it as a time when the surface of the planet was a mass of molten lava. But the discovery of the ancient diamonds, reported in the journal Nature, challenges that point of view.

Martina Menneken of Westfalische Wilhelms-Universitat Muenster, Germany, and colleagues said the presence of diamonds - that are created under intense pressure - implied there was a relatively thick continental crust as early as 4.25 billion years ago. This suggests it may have taken only around 200 million years for the Earth's surface to cool enough for water to condense and oceans to form.

"These latest findings indicate that the planet was already cooling and forming a crust much earlier than previously thought," Alexander Nemchin, an expert in geochemistry at Australia's Curtin University of Technology and one of Menneken's co-researchers, said in a statement.

"Jack Hills is the only place on Earth that can give us this kind of information about the formation of the Earth. We're dealing with the oldest material on the planet." Radioactive dating showed the crystals from Western Australia varied in age from 3.06 billion to 4.25 billion years, making them almost 1 billion years older than the previous oldest-known diamonds.

Martin Van Kranendonk, a senior geologist with the Geological Survey of Western Australia, said unraveling the history of the crystals was a boon for researchers. "Any information about the very early Earth is fantastic, it's like a Christmas present for geoscientists," he said.

More story on this link
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A Diamond is Forever?

"Wit must be foiled by wit: cut a diamond with a diamond”






The De Beers Company first created the saying "A Diamond Is Forever." In the late nineteen forties, De Beers hired an advertising agency to help increase its sale of diamonds. The agency N.W. Ayer developed an extremely successful campaign linking diamonds and romantic love.


The campaign invented the slogan “A Diamond Is Forever,” meaning that a diamond is a never-ending sign of love. It also meant that a diamond would always keep its value. The company continues to use the slogan in its advertising more than fifty years later. And reports say it has been used to advertise diamonds in at least twenty-nine languages.

The advertising business also recognized the huge success of the saying. In two thousand, Advertising Age magazine named "A Diamond Is Forever" the best advertising slogan of the twentieth century...

View Kanye West Video - Diamonds are forever

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Diamonds : Structures and Properties

diamond



Diamond Structure and Properties...




Chemical composition : C, carbon

Hardness : 10 Mohs' scale, 56-115 Knoop hardness number (GPa), 10,000 Brooks identerscale.

Crystallography : Isometric. Crystals sometimes sharp octahedral, rhombic
dodecahedral, cubes, twinning, plates, and combinations with other forms. Crystals modified often rounded and distinguished by the presents of triangular shaped pits on the faces of the octahedral shaped crystals. These trigons were once thought to be the result of etching are now believed to be part of the growth process.

Luster : Adamantine (diamond provides the definition for this kind of luster).

Cleavage : Excellent, parallel to octahedron face, four directions.

Density : 3.51 g/cm3, or specific gravity = 3.51 (3.51 at 3.53).

Refractive Index : 2.4175 in the yellow light of a sodium lamp. (2.417 at 2.419)

Birefringence : none

Pleochroism : none

Dispersion : Large (0.044), leading to rainbow colours on refraction.

Optics : Isotropic. Index very constant. N = 2.417.

Thermal Conductivity : Superb. 5-25 Watts/centimeter-degreesC (at 300 K). 4 times greater than copper, an excellent thermal conductor.

Electrical Conductivity : 0 to ~ 100 ohm-cm (resistivity at 300 K), an insulator.

Optical Transmission : Transparent over broad spectrum of the electromagnetic spectrum. An excellent material for optical windows.

Colors : Colorless, Blue,Green,Yellow,Pink,Red,Orange,Brown,Black





Definitions of terms

Index of refraction - it is defined as the speed of light in vacuum divided by the speed of light in the medium.

Birefringence - A single light ray is split into two rays as it is transmitted into uniaxial and biaxial minerals. The two rays travel at different velocities through the mineral, which is why uniaxial minerals have two indices of refraction (nw and ne). The difference between the two indices of refraction is called birefringence.

Pleochroism - The splitting of light into two light rays may result in an effect called pleochroism in some colored transparent uniaxial and biaxial minerals. Pleochroism is produced because the two rays of light are differencially absorbed as they pass through the colored anisotropic mineral. Because the absorption is different for the two light rays, the wavelengths and colors of the two light rays are different when they emerge from the crystal. The color of ruby and sapphire (uniaxial corundum) is caused in part by a blending of the two colors. Biaxial minerals, or those that crystallize in the orthorhombic, monoclinic, and triclinic crystal systems, can have three distinct colours. Tiny crystals of biaxial ivaite, the black mineral in the photograph to the left, is strongly pleochroic (yellow, dark brown, and dark green).

Dispersion - The index of refraction of an isometric mineral is not the same for all wavelengths of light. When a ray of white light travels from air into a triangular glass prism, the light not only bends but it also is separated into its component colors or wavelengths, the colors of the spectrum. The violet light is bent slightly more than the red, for instance, because it travels more slowly through the glass. As the light emerges from the prism the colors separate even more. This phenomenon, called dispersion, can be observed in some minerals such as diamond. Jewelers refer to this characteristic in gemstones as fire. The next time you look at a diamond, observe the rainbow of colours caused by the splitting of white light into its component wavelengths.

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Brilliance : Diamond's Splendor of Beauty


"As I cut each diamond, I imagine how a beam of light will strike it and dance from facet to facet within the stone." by LEO SCHACHTER







Diamond brilliance defined as the reflection of a bright white light from the facets of the diamond and is determined by the artistry of the cutting and polishing. One of good characteristics of a diamond that is contributing to its beauty is brilliance.

Brilliance is the life of the diamond. Brilliant diamonds sparkling with light, catching people's eyes, adding elegance and glamor to a woman's whole being. Diamond brilliance is what make it amazingly beautiful. A diamond if big it can have extraordinary color, but if it isn't cut for maximum brilliance, fire and scintillation, then you may be paying a lot for dull, lifeless stone.

Note: Diamond brilliance equates to beauty, so it contributes heavily to a diamond's value.



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Varieties of Gemstones




Varieties of gemstones that are known all over the world....





Opal

opals Australia is the country of origin of Opals. Nature’s splendour seems to be reflected in the manifold opulence of these fine Opals. Ninety-five per cent almost of all fine opals come from the dry and remote deserts.

Many tales and legends about this colorful gemstone. It can be traced back in its origins to a time long ago. During the ancient times of the Australian aborigines. It is reported in their legends that the creator came down to Earth on a rainbow, in order to bring the message of peace to all the humans. And at the very spot, where his foot touched the ground, the stones became alive and started sparkling in all the colors of the rainbow. That was the origin of the Opals.

The group of fine Opals includes quite a number of wonderful gemstones, which share one characteristic: they shine and sparkle in a continually changing play of colors full of fantasy, which experts describe as “opalising”. Depending on the kind, place of occurrence, and color of the main body, we differentiate Dark or Black Opal, White or Light Opal, Milk or Crystal Opal, Boulder Opal, Opal Matrix, Yowah Nuts from Queensland – the so-called “picture stones“, and also Mexican and Fire Opal. Opal variations are practically unlimited. They all show in their own special way that unique play of colors – except for Fire Opal, which due to its transparency, however, is nevertheless also considered a Fine Opal specimen. If Opals are lacking the typical play of colors, they are simply named “Common Opal”.


Garnet

By the term 'garnet', the specialist understands a group of more than ten different gemstones of similar chemical composition. It is true to say that red is the color most often encountered, but the garnet also exists in various shades of green, a tender to intense yellow, a fiery orange and some fine earth-colored nuances. The only color it cannot offer is blue. Garnets are much sought-after and much worked gemstones - the more so because today it is not only the classical gemstone colors red and green which are so highly esteemed, but also the fine hues in between. Furthermore, the world of the garnets is also rich in rarities such as star garnets and stones whose color changes depending on whether they are seen in daylight or artificial light.

Why this gemstone is distinguishes on group from the others? Well, first of all there is its good hardness of 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale. With a few minor exceptions it applies to all the members of the garnet group, and it is the reason for the excellent wearing qualities of these gemstones. Garnets are relatively insensitive and uncomplicated to work with. The only thing they really don't like is being knocked about or subjected to improper heat treatment. A further plus is their high refractive index, the cause of the garnet's great brilliance. The shape of the raw crystals is also interesting. Garnet means something like 'the grainy one', coming from the Latin 'granum', for grain. This makes reference not only to the typical roundish shape of the crystals, but also to the color of the red garnet, which often puts one in mind of the seeds of a ripe pomegranate. In the Middle Ages, the red garnet was also called the 'carbuncle stone'.


Aquamarine

From light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea, aquamarines shine over extraordinarily beautiful range of mainly light blue colors. Aquamarine is a fascinating kind of gemstone. Women the world over love it for its fine blue shades which can complement almost any skin or eye color, and creative gemstone designers are inspired by it as they are by hardly any other gem, which enables them to create new artistic cuts again and again.

Its light blue arouses feelings of sympathy, trust, harmony and friendship. Good feelings. Feelings which are based on mutuality and which prove their worth in lasting relationships. The blue of aquamarine is a divine, eternal color, because it is the color of the sky. However, aquamarine blue is also the color of water with its life-giving force. And aquamarine really does seem to have captured the lucid blue of the oceans. No wonder, when you consider that according to the saga it originated in the treasure chest of fabulous mermaids, and has, since ancient times, been regarded as the sailors' lucky stone. Its name is derived from the Latin 'aqua' (water) and 'mare' (sea). It is said that its strengths are developed to their best advantage when it is placed in water which is bathed in sunlight. However, it is surely better still to wear aquamarine, since according to the old traditions this promises a happy marriage and is said to bring the woman who wears it joy and wealth into the bargain. An ideal gem, not only for loving and married couples.

Peridot

The vivid green of the peridot, with just a slight hint of gold, is the ideal gemstone color to go with that light summer wardrobe. No wonder – since the peridot is the gemstone of the summer month of August.

The peridot is a very old gemstone, and one which has become very popular again today. It is so ancient that it can be found in Egyptian jewellery from the early 2nd millennium B.C.. The stones used at that time came from a deposit on a small volcanic island in the Red Sea, some 45 miles off the Egyptian coast at Aswan, which was not rediscovered until about 1900 and has, meanwhile, been exhausted for quite some time. Having said that, the peridot is also a thoroughly modern gemstone, for it was not until a few years ago that peridot deposits were located in the Kashmir region; and the stones from those deposits, being of an incomparably beautiful color and transparency, have succeeded in giving a good polish to the image of this beautiful gemstone, which had paled somewhat over the millennia.

The ancient Romans too were fond of this gemstone and esteemed its radiant green shine, which does not change even in artificial light. For that reason they nicknamed it the 'emerald of the evening'. Peridot is also found in Europe in medieval churches, where it adorns many a treasure, for example one of the shrines in Cologne Cathedral. During the baroque period, the rich green gemstone once again enjoyed a brief heyday, and then it somehow faded into oblivion.

Citrine

That's roughly how things go with the citrine, the stone for the month of November. Many people have come to know and love this stone under the name gold topaz, or Madeira or Spanish topaz, although in actual fact it has very little in common with the higher-quality gemstone topaz - except for a few nuances of color. Thus the history of the citrine is closely interwoven with that of the topaz, and coincides with it completely when it comes to the interpretation of alleged miraculous powers. However, the citrine is a member of the large quartz family, a family which, with its multitude of colors and very various structures, offers gemstone lovers almost everything their hearts desire in terms of adornment and decoration, from absolutely clear rock crystal to black onyx. And it does so at prices which are by no means unaffordable.

The name is derived from the color - the yellow of the lemon - , although the most sought-after stones have a clear, radiant yellowish to brownish red. Like all crystal quartzes, the citrine has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs scale and is thus, to a large extent, insensitive to scratches. It won't immediately take offence at being knocked about either, since its cleavage properties are non-existent. Even if their refractive index is relatively low, the yellow stones have just that mellow, warm tone that seems to have captured the last glow of autumn. Like golden Rhine wine or sparkling Madeira, heavy and sweet, citrine jewellery shimmers and brings a hint of sunshine to those dull November days.

There are not many yellow gemstones in the world of jewels. A diamond or a sapphire may be yellow - those will be expensive -, or sometimes a tourmaline or chrysoberyl, though these tend toward green somewhat, a golden beryl or eben a pure topaz, which we will mention again later on. However, the citrine fulfils everyone's color wishes, from lemon yellow to reddish brown.

Rare though it is, yellow does in fact occur in quartz in Nature, if seldom, when there are traces of iron in the silicon dioxide. Historically, it has been found in Spain, on the Scottish island of Arran, in France, Hungary and in several mines overseas. Perhaps the citrine wouldn't have been talked about any more at all if, in the middle of the 18th century, it had not been for the discovery that amethysts and smoky quartzes can also be rendered yellow by so-called burning. This heat treatment at temperatures of between 470 and 560 degrees has to be carried out very carefully and requires a great deal of experience. However, in the course of 200 years, its application has become so much a matter of course that most of the stones available in the trade today are in fact burnt amethysts or smoky quartzes. Only a trained specialist can recognise the signs of heat treatment at all, burnt stones having subtle stripes whilst the yellow of natural ones is cloudy.

In Europe, the boom on these yellow to reddish crystal quartzes didn't begin until, in the 1930s, expatriate agate cutters from Idar-Oberstein sent large quantities of citrine back home, along with amethyst and agate, from Brazil and Uruguay. Thus the golden-yellow quartzes made a contribution to Idar-Oberstein's becoming - and remaining - one of the world's great gemstone centres. Just as they had been used to doing with agate and other kinds of quartz, the cutters faceted the citrine using large, rotating sandstones over decades. The raw stone was actually held in the cutter's hand during this process. If you give that a little thought, it will occur to you just how skilled the cutters from the Hunsrück really were.

Amethyst

Its color is as unique as it is seductive, though in fact this gemstone of all gemstones is said to protect its wearer against seduction. The amethyst is extravagance in violet. For many thousands of years, the most striking representative of the quartz family has been a jewel coveted by princes both ecclesiastical and secular. Moses described it as a symbol of the Spirit of God in the official robes of the High Priest of the Jews, and the Russian Empress Catherine the Great sent thousands of miners into the Urals to look for it. In popular belief, the amethyst offers protection against drunkenness - for the Greek words 'amethystos' mean 'not intoxicated' in translation. A more apt stone for the month of February, particularly if there is to be plenty going on in the way of carnival celebrations, could thus hardly be wished for.

A large number of further miraculous powers are attributed to the amethyst in all sorts of cultures. It was said to protect crops against tempests and locusts, bring good fortune in war and in the hunt, drive out evil spirits and inspire the intellect. A little study of the works of Pliny will reveal that this gemstone, if worn round the neck on a cord made from dog's hair, affords protection against snakebite. Later, Hieronymus even reported that eagles placed an amethyst in their nest in order to protect their young from the selfsame danger. Apart from these powers, gemstone therapists say that the amethyst has a sobering and cleansing effect. Amethyst has also been said to quell excessive stomach acid and, according to Hildegard von Bingen, served to combat insect bites and beautify the skin. But the amethyst not only had a firm niche in medicine; it was also esteemed as a stone of friendship. And since it was thought to put the wearer in a chaste frame of mind and symbolise trust and piety, the amethyst came to occupy a very prominent position in the ornaments of the Catholic clergy over the centuries. It was the stone of bishops and cardinals; we find it in prelates' crosses and in the so-called Papal Ring (Italian, 15th century) in the Jewellery Museum in Pforzheim.

However, the most beautiful of all crystal quartzes also posed one or two riddles for the scientists, and indeed they still haven't been completely solved to this day. The amethyst has its hardness (7), its moderate refraction and its weight in common with the other quartzes, but the crystal structure is different, and it is most unconventional. The construction is stratified, as a result of which areas and lamellae of varying color intensity often come about. This explains why there are relatively few large cut amethysts of an evenly distributed dark color, in spite of its having been found so abundantly in all parts of the world. It is only in the last few years that scientists have been fairly certain of having found the real cause of the color. It is now attributed to certain iron constituents in connection with natural radioactive radiation.

Sapphire


In earlier times, some people believed that the firmament was an enormous blue sapphire in which the Earth was embedded. Could there be a more apt image to describe the beauty of an immaculate sapphire? And yet this gem comes not in one but in all the blue shades of that firmament, from the deep blue of the evening sky to the shining mid-blue of a lovely summer's day which casts its spell over us. However, this magnificent gemstone also comes in many other colors: not only in the transparent greyish-blue of a distant horizon but also in the gloriously colorful play of light in a sunset – in yellow, pink, orange and purple. Sapphires really are gems of the sky, although they are found in the hard ground of our 'blue planet'.

Blue is the main color of the sapphire. Blue is also the favorite color of some 50 per cent of all people, men and women alike. We associate this color, strongly linked to the sapphire as it is, with feelings of sympathy and harmony, friendship and loyalty: feelings which belong to qualities that prove their worth in the long term – feelings in which it is not so much effervescent passion that is to the fore, but rather composure, mutual understanding and indestructible trust. Thus the blue of the sapphire has become a color which fits in with everything that is constant and reliable. That is one of the reasons why women in many countries wish for a sapphire ring on their engagement. The sapphire symbolizes loyalty, but at the same time it gives expression to people's love and longing. Perhaps the most famous example of this blue is to be found in music, in George Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue". And the blue of the sapphire even appears where nothing at all counts except clear-sightedness and concentrated mental effort. The first computer which succeeded in defeating a world chess champion bore the remarkable name 'Deep Blue'.


Ruby

Ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum, one of the hardest minerals on Earth, of which the sapphire is also a variety. Pure corundum is colorless. Slight traces of elements such as chrome, iron, titanium or vanadium are responsible for the color. These gemstones have excellent hardness. On the Mohs scale their score of 9 is second only to that of the diamond. Only red corundum is entitled to be called ruby, all other colors being classified as sapphires. The close relationship between the ruby and the sapphire has only been known since the beginning of the 19th century. Up to that time, red garnets or spinels were also thought to be rubies. (That, indeed, is why the 'Black Ruby' and the 'Timur Ruby', two of the British Crown Jewels, were so named, when they are not actually rubies at all, but spinels.)

Ruby, this magnificent red variety from the multi-colored corundum family, consists of aluminium oxide and chrome as well as very fine traces of other elements - depending on which deposit it was from. In really fine colors and good clarity, however, this gemstone occurs only very rarely in the world's mines. Somewhat paradoxically, it is actually the coloring element chrome which is responsible for this scarcity. True enough, millions of years ago, when the gemstones were being created deep inside the core of the Earth, chrome was the element which gave the ruby its wonderful color. But at the same time it was also responsible for causing a multitude of fissures and cracks inside the crystals. Thus only very few ruby crystals were given the good conditions in which they could grow undisturbed to considerable sizes and crystallise to form perfect gemstones. For this reason, rubies of more than 3 carats in size are very rare. So it is no wonder that rubies with hardly any inclusions are so valuable that in good colors and larger sizes they achieve top prices at auctions, surpassing even those paid for diamonds in the same category.

For thousands of years, the ruby has been considered one of the most valuable gemstones on Earth. It has everything a precious stone should have: magnificent color, excellent hardness and outstanding brilliance. In addition to that, it is an extremely rare gemstone, especially in its finer qualities.

For a long time India was regarded as the ruby's classical country of origin. In the major works of Indian literature, a rich store of knowledge about gemstones has been handed down over a period of more than two thousand years. The term 'corundum', which we use today, is derived from the Sanskrit word 'kuruvinda'. The Sanskrit word for ruby is 'ratnaraj', which means something like 'king of the gemstones'. And it was a royal welcome indeed which used to be prepared for it. Whenever a particularly beautiful ruby crystal was found, the ruler sent high dignitaries out to meet the precious gemstone and welcome it in appropriate style. Today, rubies still decorate the insignia of many royal households.



Emerald
Emeralds are fascinating gemstones. They have the most beautiful, most intense and most radiant green that can possibly be imagined: emerald green. Inclusions are tolerated. In top quality, fine emeralds are even more valuable than diamonds.

The name emerald comes from the Greek 'smaragdos' via the Old French 'esmeralde', and really just means 'green gemstone'. Innumerable fantastic stories have grown up around this magnificent gem. The Incas and Aztecs of South America, where the best emeralds are still found today, regarded the emerald as a holy gemstone. However, probably the oldest known finds were once made near the Red Sea in Egypt. Having said that, these gemstone mines, already exploited by Egyptian pharaohs between 3000 and 1500 B.C. and later referred to as 'Cleopatra's Mines', had already been exhausted by the time they were rediscovered in the early 19th century.

Written many centuries ago, the Vedas, the holy scriptures of the Indians, say of the precious green gems and their healing properties: 'Emeralds promise good luck ...'; and 'The emerald enhances the well-being ...'. So it was no wonder that the treasure chests of Indian maharajas and maharanis contained wonderful emeralds. One of the world's largest is the so-called 'Mogul Emerald'. It dates from 1695, weighs 217.80 carats, and is some 10cm tall. One side of it is inscribed with prayer texts, and engraved on the other there are magnificent floral ornaments. This legendary emerald was auctioned by Christie's of London to an unidentified buyer for 2.2m US Dollars on September 28th 2001.

Emeralds have been held in high esteem since ancient times. For that reason, some of the most famous emeralds are to be seen in museums and collections. The New York Museum of Natural History, for example, has an exhibit in which a cup made of pure emerald which belonged to the Emperor Jehangir is shown next to the 'Patricia', one of the largest Colombian emerald crystals, which weighs 632 carats. The collection of the Bank of Bogota includes five valuable emerald crystals with weights of between 220 and 1796 carats, and splendid emeralds also form part of the Iranian National Treasury, adorning, for example, the diadem of the former Empress Farah. The Turkish sultans also loved emeralds. In Istanbul's Topkapi Palace there are exhibits with items of jewellery, writing-implements and daggers, each lavishly adorned with emeralds and other gems.


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